Johanna Stålnacke is a Scandinavian big mountain freeskier, climber and IFMGA Aspirant guide based in Chamonix, France. Johanna grew up in Kiruna, the very north of Sweden where Alpine skiing, racing and Gymnastics dominated her childhood. With skis on she learned to appreciate the mountains early and the curiosity for steeps lead her to try out climbing.
In 2000, Johanna left the Arctic regions to study at the music high school Rytmus in Stockholm. Besides singing and playing music, she developed a passion and talent for climbing. Soon she became one of the first Swedish women to accomplish outdoor sports climbing 8a’s (5.13b) and was successful in competitions. As a junior by winning the Swedish nationals and later as a senior, she became a Nordic Champion.
Shifting focus from sports climbing in 2007, she started to explore trad-, ice- and mixed climbing in the high alpine mountain terrain. When moving to Norway she re-introduced skiing in her practise, although this time not as a racer but with a freeride and ski mountaineering direction.
With a repertory of first ski descents in Norway, France and Canada, to skiing some of the most legendary mountain descents in the Alps, ice climbing and big wall climbing ascents in the US and the Alps, Johanna has the last couple of years evolved to be an all-around mountain athlete.
Her great passion is signified by adventurous freeskiing, often combined with a touch of alpine climbing to get in position for the descent.
In 2010 she certified as a UIAA Climbing instructor and later a Ski instructor through the Norwegian Ski Federation. Johanna is currently enrolled in the UIAGM/IFMGA/IVBV Mountain guide program where she is in the process of completing the qualification to become a International certified Mountain guide. She offers customized instruction and guiding, works as freelance writer and athlete for her partners.
A few mountain highlights
Aiguille du Tricot, South West face, 5.3/E3, Chamonix, first descent
The Blackfriar North couloir, 5.3/E3 Adamants, Canada BC, first descent
The Eugster, 5.4/E4 Aiguille du Midi North face, Chamonix
Aiguille de Rochefort, south face, 5.3/E3, Chamonix/Courmayeur, first female descent
Gervasutti couloir, 5.3/E4 Mont Blanc du Tacul, Chamonix
Col du Plan, 5.3/E4, Aiguille du Midi North face, Chamonix
Les Courtes, north east face, 5.2/E2, Chamonix, FR
Mönch, south Face, 5.1/E2, Berner Oberland, CH
Punta Vittoria, east face, 5.1/E3, Alagna, IT
First descent of the Lambda couloir, 5.1/E2 Store Russetind, Nordkjosbotn, Norway
Y couloir, 5.2/E3, Aiguille Argentiere, Chamonix, solo ski descent
Aiguille de l’Encrenaz NE couloir, 5.2/E3, Chamonix, solo ski descent
Vierramvàrri, Rullevare couloir, 5.1/E1 Kebnekaise, SE
God mother of all couloirs, 4.3/E2 Forholttinden, Lyngen Alps, NO
W couloir of Higravtinden, 5.2/E2, Lofoten, Norway
The Nose, bigwall, El Capitain, Yosemite, U.S
Repentance Super, WI6, Cogne, IT
Thanathos, onsight, trad 7a/ED, Baugen, NO
Vent du Dragon, M5, Aiguille du Midi, Chamonix, FR
Gamle Jomfru, sport 8a/5.13b, Hauktjern, Oslo, NO
Aiguille du Bionnassay traverse, Mont Blanc massif
Mont Blanc, FR
The Prow, Washington column, Yosemite, US
“Growing up above the Arctic circle taught me to love the winter, understand the cold and have balance on my skis”